Bequia is the most civilized island in The Grenadines with
shops and restaurants on the water’s edge in the main
harbor, Port Elizabeth in Admiralty Bay. Water taxi operators
greet each arriving boat to assist with mooring buoys and
offer the usual services such as bread, ice and taxi service.
Daffodil Marine Services will answer a VHF call and come
out to your boat to bring ice, water for the tanks and even
pick up laundry to be cleaned, folded and brought back in a
matter of hours.
I think it’s a good idea to accept a mooring buoy. The cost is
only $15 to $20 (U.S.) and it’s likely to be in a better place
than where you might find to anchor. It’s also easier getting
along with the water taxi operators (often called boat boys)
when they see you are spending into the local economy.
One of our boats anchored away from the others and found
upon returning from dinner ashore that the boat had been
entered and relieved of a couple hundred dollars in cash.
Compared to B.V.I., security is a greater issue down island.
It’s important to lock shut all hatches when leaving and
even lock the dinghy and its engine with the cables and
locks provided. Violent crimes are uncommon. Burglary can
generally be avoided by making sure all the hatches are
properly latched and anchoring or mooring in the vicinity of
other cruisers instead of in isolated areas.

In the morning it was time for the sail to The Tobago Cays.
The passage (past Mustique and Canouan) of about 26
miles was a reach with 20 or so knots of wind. How sweet it
is with the temperature in the mid 80’s and the water a deep
clear blue. We let Paul do most of the driving so he could
get used to a 46 foot boat. Later in the week he would have
to demonstrate proficiency in steering, man overboard drills,
anchoring, navigation and use of systems to complete the
on the water requirements for his certification. His
prerequisite courses were completed at Spinnaker Sailing
prior to the trip.

The front door to the Tobago Cays is entered from just north
of Mayreau Island along a range marked by the towers
located on two of the little Cays, Petit Rameau and Petit
Bateau. After following the range for over a mile, you pass
between the two cays to anchor in the lee of Horseshoe
Reef.

There are no stores, restaurants, or any establishments
ashore here, only 4 uninhabited cays. The anchorage is
protected by Horseshoe Reef from the seas generated by
the easterly trade winds. Water taxis provide the only
services; bringing out bread, ice, freshly caught fish,
tee-shirts, etc. They can also provide a fish barbecue on the
beach of one of the cays for you. Diving services are also
available and can be contacted via VHF. This is a place to
enjoy nature. The snorkeling on Horseshoe Reef is
fantastic. There are dinghy buoys over the reef so
snorkelers don’t damage the reef with their dinghy anchors.
We got into the water as soon as we could after settling into
the anchorage. The coral was in good shape with lots and
lots of small fish. While snorkeling, Melinda saw a black tip
shark and tried to call our attention to it but we were only
paying attention to our own discoveries and missed the
shark.

We stayed in Tobago Cays two nights and had a fish
barbecue on the beach organized by one of the water taxi
operators. It was overpriced and we had to bring our own
plates and silverware but it was fun getting all of us ashore
together from the 4 boats. The barbecued fish was plentiful
and very good. They provided potato salad, rice and beer to
go with it. I don’t even want to tell you what we paid but I will
say: Be sure you know what you’re going to get when
negotiating a price with any of the water taxi operators.
We slipped out the southern Back door of the Tobago Cays
the next day to head directly to Clifton Harbor in Union
Island. Unless you’re familiar with the area, this should only
be done when the sun is high because the gap through the
reef isn’t marked. We probably wouldn’t have gone that way
ourselves except for having seen the area the day before by
dive boat.

Bob has been organizing and leading group bareboat
charter trips since 1987 and is currently doing 2 trips a
year to locations in The South Pacific, Sea of Cortez,
The Caribbean, and The Mediterranean. (Destinations
vary annually based on active interest) You may contact
him at bob@spinnakersailing.com
or visit Spinnaker Sailing at
http://www.spinnakersailing.com